🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.